Document heads backstage for an exclusive look at LFW S/S 2016 with highlights from some of the most moving collections including J.W. Anderson, Sibling, Molly Goddard, Thomas Tait, Simone Rocha, Topshop, Mary Kantranzou and Marques Almeida. Document‘s online fashion director Ronald Burton and photographer Dham Srifuengfung give us an exclusive inside look. See full gallery above.
This season the duo of Sibling take a swing back to the late 60s, with a hint of early 70s infused glam. The mini dresses, mini skirts, pumps paired with socks, bold leopard prints and circular patterns give a strong nod to the Mod era. While the silhouettes executed from plastic were exciting to see, we also witnessed a love and strength in knitwear, with the opening shimmery dresses and separate looks, and my favorite, the cool, sexy netted long dresses.
Is there ever such a thing as too much tulle or taking clothing too serious? Proving to be master with tulle, Molly Goddard delivers another stunningly, fanciful collection in a soft color palette. Not that this collection is only for the girly-girl, as the english sense of eclectic styling made it very cool and contemporary, and there were some non-tulle dresses which beautifully stood on their own.
What was not a hit in this collection? Accessories hit a high note with statement chokers, leather bags with twisted metal handles, and square toe heeled shoes which were all the rage in the 90’s. That’s not to say that the clothing was any less exciting and desirable as models hit the catwalk in cool- knitted pant suits, statement sleeve blouses, sexy mini dresses made and layered from the most interestingly uncommon fabrics, voluminous cinched trousers, and cool pop art prints appearing everywhere.
It’s delicate, but not necessary soft, feminine, but not necessarily dainty. It’s all of these juxtaposed ideas that make Simone’s designs so interesting, causing you to take a closer look at every look she shows on the runway. The couture like hand to the clothing was genius, everything from the voluminous sleeves, the construction and use of bows, and the knotted plastic bits that brought an obscure element of a twisted sort of cool to the other otherwise light, and airy collection.
What cool girl today doesn’t lend herself to a man’s closest to update her feminine sensuality. The show opened with menswear inspired pieces, that were so nonchalantly undone, that it oozed a sense a cool, sex appeal. Highlights from the show was the oversized blazers and knitwear paired with sheer dresses, skinny trousers, with loosely undone woven shirts, and fuzzy sandals that had a sexy bedroom slipper fetish appeal.
Kantranzou flawlessly exercised every skilled technique of a well versed and successful designer. In this collection she worked in tedious embroideries that move as if they weigh nothing, her usual strength in patterns, and structured couture like shapes to come up with a killer mash up collection.
Whether it was those crystal leggings, the patent a-line mini skirts with the crystals, or the leather one piece jumpsuit, Thomas Tait engaged it’s audience with an unusually special component in every single look.
LVMH prize winners Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida keeps getting better and more enticing season after season. When they first stepped on the scene, what they were doing with denim was irresistible and an instant sensation, and while they still kept this thread throughout their latest show, it was nice to see them evolve the conversation while keeping their cool, street wise sense. Highlights here was the use of fraying across lighter weight fabrics that were used for trousers, long skirts, and bib tops.