Document teams up with photographer Mich Cardin to go backstage at a New York Fashion Week headlined by departures and returns.
Helmut Lang
The most highly anticipated show of NYFW this season was Helmut Lang by Shayne Oliver. Although it’s always interesting to see a new designer make their debut at an iconic fashion house, the industry was holding their breath to see: Will we see more of Shayne Oliver’s Hood By Air aesthetic or the minimalist luxury that Helmut Lang reached legendary status creating. Oliver was able to combine his contemporary twist on design with Helmut’s fetish interest to bring the brand to the modern day. A model strutted down the runway holding up a newsprint purse to his forehead that read “HELMUT LANG,” to let the audience know the brand resurgence was a force to be reckoned with.
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs closed out New York Fashion week this season with a bang—and he did it in complete silence. The models walked around the Park Avenue Armory with no musical accompaniment until the finale of the show, where the models swept the floor to the operatic score of Jean-Jacques Beinex’s, “Diva”—as dramatic as the collection itself. The models, clad in head wraps with jewel embellishments, were reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent and Nina Simone, and representated New York in all of its organized chaos. The collection had beading, sequins, psychedelic prints, tinsel, and more—embodying New York City’s essence.
Vaquera
“Who the fuck is Vaquera?” read the back of an oversized shirt and tie during the Vaquera show this season. Held in the basement boxing rink in Tribeca, these CFDA nominees tackled their own personal identity crisis. They dealt with archetypes that have been touched on in their previous seasons: a fleet of mix matched punk, surfer, and business garments were twisted and exaggerated while being stomped down the runway.
Area
Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczky focused heavily this season on the importance of daywear of the Area woman. Their initial inspiration was the Pompidou’s “Kollektsia!” exhibit of Russian art, which can be seen in their colorful palette of purple, fuchsia, red, and green. Staying true to their signature iriscendent fabric and bejeweled accessories, the collection broke from the mold and focused on the everyday woman.
Sies Marjan
Sies Marjan showed in his own atelier this season, allowing the audience to see the garments parading down the runway as well as the roll of fabric from which it came lining the walls of the venue. The show emphasised who the brand is and what they stand for as monochromatic looks created a rainbow as the show ensued, displaying slinky silhouettes in luxurious fabrics.
Mathew Adams Dolan
For this collection Dolan pulled inspiration from Bruce Weber’s photography and American Psycho. The majority of the garments had Dolan’s signature oversized sleeves but was geared more towards the business person as a selection of button down shirts, sweaters, and suits came down the runway. The half tucked, partly buttoned and exaggerated garments painted us the picture of the the Wall Street man or woman on the verge of a mental breakdown.
