Photographer David Richardson goes backstage at London Fashion Week to view the disruption of established norms for Document.
Heritage was a running theme this season in London, and Burberry’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection was no exception. We saw the usual check print, trench coat, rainwear, and knits—only this season it was as if they were all put in a blender. The result was a visual triumph, as Christopher Bailey broke the barriers between tropes of aristocracy and modern streetwear.
Versus Versace’s Spring/Summer show was a celebration of fashion’s next generation. Taking place at Central Saint Martins’ campus in London’s Kings Cross, this show had a lot to offer, including the announcement of a new scholarship in Gianni Versace’s name that will be annually given to one lucky and well deserving fashion design student. Western influences were present with ornate belt buckles, bandanas, and plaid, but splashes of neon neoprene and mesh gave the collection a futuristic twist.
Pringle of Scotland
For their Spring/Summer collection, Pringle of Scotland aimed to redefine what it means to be quintessentially Scottish, including new interpretations of their beloved argyle patterns and featuring images of the country’s vast landscapes taken by the photographer Harley Weir. The collection also included the brand’s signature matching knitwear deconstructed, ruched, and sheer—giving a fresh and seductive spin to what we have come to know and love from the over-two-century-old house.
Calm and simplistic domesticity is what we saw from JW Anderson this season. The clothes had a soft palette of natural tones, with knits, leather, and occasional splash’s of polka dots and stripes which mirrored the feel of the show’s venue. Decorated with works of art from Jonathan Anderson’s personal collection, the garments whispered a more intimate form of luxury.
Inspired by Queen Elizabeth II’s love of jazz, as well as the nightlife scene of 1950s Harlem, Erdem’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection was infused with raw emotion. His signature use of print and color dazzled, along with beautiful embellishments in pearl, brocade, and embroidery, featuring standout dresses, gowns, and tailored coats.